CRAP!!!! Well…..I don’t know how to say this……..ummm…….well….ok I will just tell u. I HAVE AN ADDICTION. No its not drugs its something far more addicting……………SURFING.
Me on a fun right at Pupukeas
I cant really tell all of you how much I have grown to love surfing. It is my new passion. There is nothing that I enjoy more at this moment that a good northwest swell at Pupukeas or Rocky Point. I also have the problem that none of you (that I know of) surf much so I don’t know if you will understand how I feel about it. It is so fun and so relaxing and so therapeutic you have no idea. One of my new best buds in the world is Toni Clark.
He is from Tennessee and is a really good surfer.
Tony taking a wave at one of our favorite spots "Kaiwalos"
Since I got here we have been surfing together and have been having a blast doing it. We even have gone night surfing a couple of times. You cant imagine the thrill of ripping down a wave in the moonlight with the Waikiki skyline in front of you. ITS SO AWESOME. Surfing also makes you forget any problems you have. Especially when you do it in killer orange short shorts.
If me or Toni are having any kind of a bad day we just look at each other and say…..Well lets go surf it off.
Rippin Sunset in the short shorts
Several times when the swell is good we have got up before sunrise to go dawn patrol surf just so we could get the best waves before the others get there. Sitting on your board watching the sunrise or set over the waves is a near euphoric experience. I have gone tandem surfing with some cute chicks (this is two people on one board and is way fun). I also have mastered the headstand on the longboard which also is a blast. So basically I am hooked. If any of you want to make me happy at any time in my life its simple…….help me get to some waves, preferably Northshore oahu.
A Fun drop at Pupukeas
I love Nevada with all my heart but it can be hard on someone with a love for the ocean…….there just isn’t much oceanfront property….lol.
7 comments:
I used to be cool like you. Tan, athletic, active, adventurous...
Now I garden.
Jacob-
Small observation: the only wave I see you fully standing on your board while riding is the one that looks similar to the types of waves Lily creates in her baby pool. Hmmm?
Maybe hang out with Tony a little more, eh?
RAe
jake...dude..im hooked to bro. good times together. im still stoked from goats yesturday..and kaisers...and night sesh at queens a week ago!! ahh...the life
Well Rae obviously you dont know what "grabbing the rail" is or how to make a hard bottom turn on a surfboard. Also I have also surfed the same wave toni was surfing in that pic at kaiwalos. DONT EVER TRY TO BASH MY SURFING. YOU HAVE NEVER SEEN ME!!!!. lol jk just had to defend my manly honor.
Wow you really are getting good aren't you Jacob? But the question is, and I hope your family doesn't kill me for asking, Have you gone skydiving yet? ;) Have loads of fun!
Dude I'm so jealous sounds like you're havin' a killer time bro'.
Enjoy it.
Jacob!
Yes, I am breaking the law and venturing off the myldsmail website. So shoot me. I am extremely jealous of you. Trapping sounds amazing. Got to go, I've been cought!!!! Meagan
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