Why surfing is the greatest thing EVER!!!!!

Have you ever gone to a football game to stare at the field....of course not. However you have probably gone to the ocean to just stare at it. See the thing about surfing that separates it from anything else is simple....its the waves! Waves are unique to surfing. They are beautiful, powerful and can be so fun!





Perfection (I took this pic at rocky point just before we paddled out).

I am so lucky live on North Shore Oahu. It is probably the best seven mile coast of surf in the world. Surfers call it the seven mile miracle. The experience of getting up all excited with friends. Piling in a car with the boards and listen to Bob Marley with the sun and wind in your face is great.




Its always an adventure. Then you arrive at the beach and everyday its different. No surf session is like any other. Nothing beats a day with friends in the sun taking wave after wave in clear warm blue water. Here are a couple highlights of me and my friends (the only disadvantage to this is that I get great shots of my friends but no one ever takes pictures of me! Still most of them are better surfers than me)......



Tony gettin a big drop!



Taylor gettin in the tube!


Tony's brother Mike tucking into a gnarly one



Jordan tucking into the barrel!



Me getting a fun drop



My Brazilian Bud Gabe rippin a big turn.



See surfing is not just about riding waves. Its about the whole experience. Not only that you can surf until you are 80 years old if you want. Its so fun to be out on the waves and see a 5 year drop in alongside a 60 year old who started surfing in the 60's. Still, I cant stand the stupid crap surfing gets. First off so many people get into surfing....not because they want to surf but because they want to be labeled as a "surfer" cause that's cool. Still luckily surfing itself weeds out most tards with this attitude simply because learning it takes a while and its not that fun until you start to get the hang of it. Also snowboarders love to compare snowboarding to surfing. I HATE THIS. They always say "why do you like surfing, you only get up to ride for like 10 seconds". This just proves that they have no idea what surfing is all about and what those ten seconds are like. I will take ten seconds on a clean barreling wave at rocky point over a day of snowboarding. AND I GUARANTEE ANYONE WHO RIGHT NOW DISAGREES WITH THIS IS SOMEONE WHO HAS NEVER BEEN ON A CLEAN 10 FOOT BARRELING WAVE. I ALSO GUARANTEE THAT ANYONE WHO HAS WILL AGREE WITH ME. Sorry about that little rant. hahahaha. Anyway Its so great to be back in the waves...I honestly love it and nothing can compare with a beautiful day at the beach with friends and girls riding wonderful waves and being left stoked for the rest of the day.



To try and describe the feeling of surfing is like trying to describe a color in words. You just don't know how good it is until you have done it.