My Girlfriend

Yep thats right I now have a Girlfriend. She is so beautiful and I am crazy in love with her. She is very nice, if conditions are right but when she gets pissed she throws me around and the other day she smacked me in the head. She is about 3 to 7 feet tall depending on wind conditions. Yep thats right I am in love with the ocean and more especially her curves....the waves. Actually to be more honest I haven't really gotten to know all that many girls here because whenever I take them with me to the beach I leave them behind and go hang out with my Girlfriend.


I really love surfing but I want to preface this blog with the fact that I AM NO GREAT SURFER! Sure I can catch some waves and ride but I am no hardcore wave shredder. Still I have been doing it a lot. There has been a pretty solid North Shore swell this spring that has continued later than normal. So conditions have been awesome. For all of you that don't know North Shore Oahu which is fifteen minutes from where I live is the greatest surfing location on the planet. All the biggest pro surf competitions are help here. Still, this is all in the winter when the swells get as big 30 to 40 feet high in some spots. THAT IS INSANE. ITS LIKE A BUILDING FALLING DOWN. Luckily in the spring and summer its a lot calmer and smaller. Surfing really is a great sport and I don't think it gets enough respect. Sure everyone knows the pro golfer Tiger Woods. Oh....wow.....he can hit a little ball a few hundred yards. Yet yet many don't know about guys like Laird Hamilton who voluntarily stands in front of mountains that fall down and rides them like a pro.
Whats more amazing a nice straight drive or Laird Hamilton at Teahupoo Tahiti.


Heck I would take a punch to the face from Mike Tyson before going in front of that wave. Surfers get a bad rap and are portrayed as losers and true...... some are. But thats not what surfing is about. Surfing was created by the Hawaiians purely as a form of recreation.


So surfing is really all about fun. In my favorite surf video "Step into Liquid" one of the best pro surfers is asked who he thinks the best surfer is....his reply "the one who's having the most fun". Thats the beauty of surfing. Its so cool to see 60 year old guys on longboards still riding with there sons and sometimes grandsons and all of them having fun together. One of my best buds here, Toni, and his brothers have surfed together for years. His brother lives here in Hawaii and the other day he went and surfed with us. It was cool to watch them cheer for each other as they took wave after wave. Oh here is a pic of Toni, he is the good surfer of the group.



Also a week ago I took some girls down to the gentle surf of Waikiki to teach them. To surf. At first they were having a little trouble but slowly started to get the hang of it. But one girl had not really got a wave so I showed her some things and pushed her in front of a wave. She stood up and rode it all the way to shore. I don't know who was yelling louder, her or me. See that what its all about. FUN. It also is so incredibly different depending on conditions and where you go. The other day I went to a gentle spot near campus called Goat Island. Is was near sunset time and I paddled out and was all alone. The water was warm and lapping quietly against my board. All there was was the sound of the waves and the beautiful red sky in front of me with the silhouette of the palm trees on the horizon. I took wave after glassy wave. Another surfer cam out and we made small talk. The next morning, still on a high from the sunset surf, made a 5:30 surf run with a buddy I have from Brazil named Gabe. The sun rose and the water was glassy and clear as we took the fun waves in. Surfing can be so relaxing or Scary as Hell.

The next day we went to North Shore and the waves were dropping some 7 to ten foot waves on the bigger sets. I got out and my heart was pumping and I felt a little out of my league. I was with Joey Pugh who body boards well and Tony and his brother who are both pretty good surfers. A few sets came through but I was a little unsure and didn't take them.

Then a solid 7 footer came and I decided I had to. The wave came up behind me and I paddled hard. I felt myself lift up. Tony and his brother watched and thought I was gonna eat it and they said that when they saw the wave crash they thought " Ouch he just got crushed". But to their surprise I emerged with arms in the air cheering. When the wave came it walled up hard and My nose dropped sharply but I was able to get up and turn down the face. It was the greatest rush. I felt on top of the world and suddenly found my courage. I got several other good waves but none as big as that first one. I also got crushed a few times.


Actually I got smashed pretty hard one time. The wave flipped my a few times and I landed on my board with my head and actually chipped a part of my board. I also lost my necklace in the water. Still beaten bruised and sunburned it was a great day!

Yeah that me. Joey got a GREAT SHOT!

So yeah I have a Girlfriend, the ocean, and there is nothing I like doing more than surfing with her.

So here is my poem

"Ode to the Surfer man"

Heres to you great surfer man
you with a body so tan
you charge the raging sea
with a long straight surfboard in hand.
and leave all the hot chicks behind
to the other guys on land
Up and down a fall or two
but it is not so bad.
When you get back you will just lie
about all the great rides you had!


Aloha and I miss you guys

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